Now all we have to do is take this bus over those volcanos to reach Playa Blanca... We'll pick up our story there, though the bus ride was hairy... This road is two lanes wide, the major highway. Spaniards make it sport to pass... And it's windy and windy (one means the wind blows hard, the other means the road is curvey) from one way or the other, and there is nothing but lava and desert between little towns once you head south. And head south is precisely what we did because that's where we'd made our reservations, figuring that that's where the fewest people would be. Where we could enjoy a little quiet little time to ourselves. And we were right, and wrong...but mostly right.

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